EATING OUT IN LONDON

ASTUTE ARMENIAN

London has only about half a dozen Russian restaurants and, as far as I know, only one of them serves Armenian food and that’s EREBUNI in Lancaster Gate, W2, a cosy place In the basement of the London Guards Hotel at 36- 37 Lancaster Gate, where I enjoyed one of the best meals so far this year. Being one of so few Russian and Armenian establishments, it attracts visiting Russians and seems to be the centre for many parties for those from the home country aranged by hosts, the charming Edward Torossiants and his delightful wife Nona. As you enter Erebuni’s basement site, you are faced by a small bar and sitting area and to the left is the restaurant, a smallish room with a bistro feel to it.

As we sat down, we espied a large table of Russian rock musicians over here for some concerts. They seemed to be having a good time, drinking, smoking and eventually eating. We settled down to do the same. It seemed approprate to order vodka as an aperitif which is what we did, only to be brought a whole fug of the liquor in question, plus ice and tonic water. Erebuni Is renowned for its selection of the Russian spirit such as Moskovskaya and Stolichnaya. There’s also a range of flavoured vodkas such as Limonnaya, with lemon, Pertsova, with pepper, Wishowka, cherry, and Okhotnichya, described as ’hunter’s vodka’. Prices range from £1.80 to £2.90. There’s also a good list of wines (house from £7.90 a bottle, £2.50 a glass) including, Georgian and Moldavian wines. The usual liqueurs, spirits and beers are also available, Including a Ukrainian beer named Pivo Zhiguli (£3.20). We enjoyed a good Russian beer called Baltika.

The menu comprises cold starters of meats, fish, salads etc, hot savouries and soups, while the main courses offer Stuffed Vine Leaves, Honey and Mustard Chicken, Stuffed Chicken, Turkey Leg, Armenian Kebab, Shish Kebab, Lamb Chops, Baby Chicken, Beef Steak, Rabbit and Chicken Kiev. On the seafood front are Tiger, Butterfly or Chinese King Prawns, Rainbow Trout, Salmon Steaks and even Fish and Chips with peas! The fish dishes are more of an ’international’ selection rather than Russian or Armenian, but Erebuni does claim it’s a ’Continental’ menu.

Edward brought us a delicious selection of cold starters Including Karmir Bibar(£4.30), the Armenian way of marinating red peppers with garlic and fresh parsley; Sekhtorats (£4.30), tried aubergines also with garlic and parsley; Grioby Marinovanye (£4.60), Russian-style marinated mushrooms; Ogurtsy Marinovanye (£2.60), which are pickled and marinated cucumbers; and Stolichny (£4.20), a proper ’Russian’ salad and not the poor relation we generally get served in the UK, but tasty morsels of potatoes, green peas, pickled cucumbers and mayonnaise - an excellent blend of ingredients. There was also some very fine homemade Coleslaw (£3.80), and again it was the real thing, a rich and tangy blend of cabbage, carrots and mayonnaise. The best dish was the Yazik Otvarnoy (£4.70). Apparently the centrepiece at any Russian celebration, this is cooked beef tongue served with horseradish or mustard and it really is a very relishable delicacy.

We also enjoyed Seliodka Po Russky (£4.60), perfect salted herrings packed with flavour, garnished with onions, oil and served in the traditional way with boiled potatoes. For our main courses we liked the traditional Russian dish of Pelemeny Slbirskiye (£4.90), Siberian ravioli with sour cream or vinegar, and Bliny S - Miasom (£3.50), a delicious Russian pancake of minced meat with tomatoes and sour cream. After all this good food we adjourned to the bar for coffee. Nona insisted I try the Napoleon (£2.90), the lightest of light flaky pastries with whipped cream, so I did. We can’t wait to go back to this great find hidden in W2.

Try it - you won’t be disappointed.

EREBUNI, London Guards Hotel, 36-37 Lancaster Gate, W2, 0171 402 6067, is open Mon-Sat 7.39am- 10.30am, Sun 8am-11am, and Mon-Thurs 6.30 -11pm, Fri & Sat 7pm-midnlght. The nearest Underground station is Lancaster Gate.

REPRODUCED BY KIND PERMISSION OF WHATS ON IN LONDON